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Sukhothai
Although Sukhothai was Thailand's fist capital, it only lasted a little over 100 years from its foundation in 1257 before being superseded by Ayuthaya in 1379. But if its period of glory was short, its achievements in art, literature, language and law, apart from the more visible evidence of great buildings, was enormous. In general, the ruins visible today at Sukhothai and other cities of the kingdom, like Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai, are more appealing than Ayuthaya because they are less urbanised and further off the beaten track.
Orientation & Information
Old Sukhothai, known as Meuang Kao, is spread over quite an area. New Sukhothai is 12km from the old town and has a good market, but otherwise it's an uninteresting place. Sukhothai is 55km east of the Bangkok to Chiang Mai road from Tak. A map, available at the old town entrance, is essential for exploring the scattered ruins. The ruins are divided into five zones and there is a 20B admission free into each zone. Bicycles can be hired to get around.
Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
This museum provides an introduction to Sukhothai history and culture, and is a good place to begin your
explorations. They also sell printed guides to the ruins
here. It's open daily from 9 am to 4 pm and admission is 20B.
Wat Mahathat
This vast assemblage, the largest in the city, once contained 198 chedis, as well as various chapels and sanctuaries. Some of the original Buddha images remain, including a big one among the broken columns. A large, ornamented pond gives fine reflections.
Wat Si Chum
A massive seated Buddha figure is tightly squeezed into this open, walled building. A narrow tunnel inside the wall leads to views over the Buddha's shoulders and on to the
top. Candle-clutching kids used to guide you up and point out the 'Buddha foot' on the way, but the tunnel has been closed to visitors in recent years.
Other Attractions
The Wat Si Sawai has three prang and a moat and was originally intended as a Hindu temple. It's just south of Wat Mahathat.
Wat Sa Si is a classically simple Sukhothai-style wat set on an island.
Wat Trapang
Thong, next to the museum, is reached by the foot-bridge crossing the large, lotus-filled pond which surrounds it. It is still in use.
Somewhat isolated to the north of the city, Wat Phra Pai Luang is similar in style to Wat Si Sawai.
Wat Chang Lom is to the east; the chedi is surrounded by 36 elephants.
Wat Saphan Hin is a couple of
kilometers west of the old city walls on a hillside and features a large Buddha looking back to
Sukhothai.
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